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Whenever assembling a roll of London’s finest restaurants, one might anticipate well-known Michelin-starred names. However, tucked high among these gastronomic titans is a modest salonu situated in a distant part of northern London.

An Unexpected Recognition

This small Turkish restaurant, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a influential culinary publication. The accolade has left the owners totally astonished.

“I’m utterly astonished,” states a owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their small place earning such a lofty spot on a respected 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

This small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after food hotspot, has kept much of its earlier feel. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking show, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” says the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

However, it is all about the cuisine, and this eatery certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are added in bit by bit. Once the savoury mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to take in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is often consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a powerful burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a more intense, nuttier and not overly sweet profile.

Outranking the Giants

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the top of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant full for under £25, similar tasting menus at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

A Philosophy of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is most important is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is shared by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a position of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of overthinking, and to show what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Story of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel really proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants take years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a social life but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is bound to have meaning outside its own walls. “I think many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the greater importance of this gastronomic triumph.